Why Should I Wear a Burqa?

Stories and photos from my visits to Saudi Arabia, Oman, and Socotra (Yemen)

Ciao Dear Friend:

Wearing a burqa is not my style, but I do it from time to time to gain access to Islam’s holy sites, as I did while visiting the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi last December. What do you think? Is it my look?

Seriously, I have no issues with dressing for the occasion. In my mind, wearing a burqa to access a mosque is no different than wearing a pair of sturdy hiking boots to access the top of a volcano. I’ve done both. When I dress, I follow the “three C rule” that Brant made up:

Culture.

Climate.

Comfort.

Sometimes, that means wearing a funny hat. This one was made for us by our guide’s mother, who lives on Socotra Island, part of Yemen.

I got a good dose of culture when we visited Saudi Arabia this month. We were there for seven incredible days. During that time, we saw camels, deserts, mountains, ancient tombs, modern cities, and construction projects so ambitious they boggle the mind. Here’s a short video of our time in Saudi Arabia.

The Saudi people were warm and welcoming, and unlike some over-touristed places where they hate tourists, the Saudis were genuinely happy to have us visiting their country.

The stunning Maraya “mirrored” building in AlUla, Saudi Arabia

I did notice how Saudi men treat Saudi women with deference and respect, like the women were some kind of fragile vase that might break if mishandled. It reminded me of my 2018 visit to Oman when I was sequestered in a separate room at a restaurant and how the bus driver treated me like a princess on our overnight ride from Salalah to Muscat.

Here is part of that story from the chapter “A Penguin in Oman” from “Far and Wild,” along with a few pictures.

To reach the north of Oman and its capital city of Muscat, I took a 12-hour all-night bus. To the stunned amazement of the other passengers, all male, I boarded the bus alone. The driver immediately treated me like a visiting princess. He insisted I take a whole row of seats in the front so I could lie down. He even provided me with a pillow and a blanket. We drove a thousand kilometers through the desert that night. I didn’t see one light the whole time.

When we arrived in Muscat, the driver stopped directly in front of my hotel and helped me with my luggage. I cannot imagine receiving this kind of gentle courtesy in my own country.

I am still deciding how I feel about male behavior in Oman. It appears to be a blend of veiled machismo, pure courtesy, and religious obligation. I do not think many women could tolerate Omani culture — it requires a good deal of indifference. A woman must be willing to ignore the pesky feeling of being constantly watched, hunted like prey, or pampered like a helpless princess.

Despite Oman’s drawbacks, I fell in love with the kind Omani people. I left part of my heart in this safe desert country and vowed to return. But next time, I’ll come to Oman with a man and a rented car, or a car and a rented man, whichever works best.

The opera house in Muscat. No burqa needed!

The town of Nizwa in southern Oman.

Hiking in the mountains. Sturdy sandals and shorts work best!

One of the kind Omani men

The Grand Mosque of Muscat

The only time I camped with an armed guard. Read about it in the book!

My typical attire when I travel.

I have my rented man now, except I had to marry him! Brant and I celebrated five years together earlier this month, just a few days after I turned 52. I have a funny story about that birthday coming up in my next newsletter.

Brant and me in Socotra last December. He looks grumpy, but he wasn’t.

For now, Brant and I are off on another adventure to Malaysia, Laos, Vietnam, and Thailand. I've been to all those countries before, but Brant never has, so I thought I'd show him around.

I’ll catch up with you after we get back in late March. Until then…

Much love!